That, coupled with the fact that Malta is not rich in its own natural resources, means that many Maltese flavorings have roots in the Arab world, North Africa, and mainland Europe. South of Sicily and flanked by Tunisia and Libya, the country has been a hotbed for both traders and invaders since time immemorial. These unexpected flavors owe much to Malta’s location. This second dough, made with almond flour, crumbles at the first chewy bite. The vanilla exterior gives way to a center that’s flavored with cardamom and clove, even aniseed in some versions. The creviced dough is smoothed out by shiny white royal icing on top.īut the three-dimensional bone shapes hold a secret. They’re typically large enough to share, and, traditionally, each one is uniquely knotty-though some bakers now use cookie cutters to make them more uniform. The għadam look like chunky sugar cookies. They are edible memento mori, part of Malta’s longstanding Month of the Dead celebrations. G ħadam tal-mejtin (dead men’s bones), or alternatively, għadam ta’ Novembru (November bones) are available not just here, but across the country throughout November. But by the end of October, their treats take on a more macabre look. Often, they turn out flaky ricotta-or-pea-filled pastizzi or figolli, the colorful Easter-time sweets. For more than 50 years, Baron Confectionery in Ħaż-Żabbar, Malta, has been crafting pastries.
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